Day 5 in Italy: Train Ride to Cinque Terre

The kids woke us up this morning (for anyone who was betting how long it would take for that to happen again). Thankfully, it was still past 8. We rolled out of bed and told the boys we would be going on our first big train ride. They were very excited and we spent the next hour and a half packing and trying to wrangle them into clothes. By 10:00 we were packed with our two backpacks and a duffle bag and we were out the door.

For the first time since we’ve been in Rome we were at the bus stop on time and the bus came as planned. We rode through the city and arrived at Termini station.

Termini is huge, pretty overwhelming, and notorious for pickpockets. I’ve only traveled on trains in Europe one or two other times, so we got there early to make sure we were in the right place at the right time and had ample buffer to figure everything out. We still hadn’t had a proper breakfast so we all enjoyed some cornetti stuffed with various things like sweet ricotta, apricot marmalade, and Nutella. After walking around a bit, the time then arrived to get on our train.

A boy and his Nutella stuffed cornetto.

Beren found our carriage and we climbed in and found our seats. The train got underway and Beren was so excited to see how fast we would go. It was a high speed train, but like a plane, it never feels as fast when you’re on board. Beren kept asking when we would go faster. It was about at this moment, when we had just left the station and the intercom came on to welcome us to the train and checked for my ticket, and while I had the tickets, I no longer had my COVID Vaccine Card.

Right now in Italy, you have to show your vaccination status to do anything, including ride trains, so I had been keeping it in my front pocket for convenience rather than in my zipped inner jacket pocket where I keep the passports because you have to show it all the time. As they say, you live and you learn, and this was one of those lessons because, those notorious Termini pickpockets, they got me. Well they got my COVID card. Funny thing is, they didn’t get any of the cash also in my pocket. So now, here I was on the train without one of the most important papers to me, while the pickpocket successfully took something worthless to them. Honestly, I wish they had just stopped me after taking it and offered to sell it back to me. I would have gladly given them the money in my pocket.

I was pretty panicked. Thankfully, I remembered I have a picture of my card on my phone, without the booster, however, so still not technically what I needed, but it was something. This was all compounded because I had made another mistake and didn’t bring any copies of our important documents on our weekend jaunt. That will not happen again. But for now, I sat in anxiety hoping that my photo would work.

When the time came, and the conductor approached about 20 minutes before our stop, my phone photo did work. He glanced at the photo, didn’t ask questions, and moved on. I just hope that pattern will be the same on the way back.

This is where, I believe, even in the small things, God provides. He gave me grace and let my COVID pass picture work. Also, he orchestrated things beforehand. When we get back to Rome I have another duplicate COVID card waiting for me. I happen to have two because, many months ago, I forgot to bring my original to my second vaccine appointment, so they gave me another which I continued to fill in with duplicate information. Allison doesn’t have two, but I happen to. Once we get back to Rome, that extra pass is waiting for me and I won’t have a care in the world.

Us on the train to Manarola.

But until then, we will enjoy Manarola in Cinque Terre, which is amazing! It is like walking around in a postcard! Upon our arrival, our AirBnb host met us at the end of the tunnel exiting the train station. He walked us to the modern, and incredibly stylish, apartment with a balcony overlooking the main street. We walked from the door of our apartment about 100 yards down the main street to gaze out onto the green Ligurian Sea.

View onto Main Street from the apartment.
Enjoying the view down at the tiny harbor.

The small, brightly colored town is situated between two cliffs, almost like the houses just slid down between them. We meandered from the water up a steep path and found an outdoor restaurant, high up on the cliff to enjoy apertivo, which is essentially like a before dinner cocktail hour where you can get some heavy appetizers. We shared some incredible bruschetta with cheese, prosciutto, and grilled zucchini alongside a caprese salad. The boys also enjoyed a salad of fresh fruit.

Waiting for our apertivo.
Enjoying our apertivo. (Fruit salad not pictured)

As we ate, a storm moved offshore and the sunset came into full form, illuminating the palate of pastel houses lining the opposite cliff. Beren found a bug walking behind our outdoor table and he spent some time feeding his fruit to it while also building it a shelter out of leaves and debris. Meanwhile, Silas danced and ingratiated himself to the waitstaff. It truly was a beautiful moment in every way and one I will treasure.

Beren’s bug sanctuary
The view

After apertivo, I came back to the apartment to work while Allison and the boys hung out on a playground with the best view I’ve ever seen for a playground. Later, Allison and I were still hungry, so I went out to try to find some food around 8:30 PM, but it’s the offseason here, so nothing was open with the exception of a single restaurant for dine in only, so by circumstance and not choice, our nightly fast had begun.

I’m not sure what tomorrow will hold, but we will probably explore more of Manarola and more of the five towns that make up Cinque Terre. I’m excited to experience more of the beauty and charm on a day neither of us will have to work.