I know I’m like a broken record everyday commenting on how early the boys woke up. This may just seem like another mundane and insignificant detail among the plethora of other mundane and insignificant details I choose to include in our daily recaps. However, I have done it with purpose because I knew at some point, the late bedtime here, the missed nap there, and the consistently extremely early rises would coalesce into a major plotline at some point. Today was that day.
Both were up early again and today was my day to get up with them. I could have, slept much longer, and probably needed to, and I was resentful of this fact when I arose. I am sorry to say I went into deadbeat dad mode and turned on a show for the boys to watch while I snoozed.
Before long they were hungry, but we had almost nothing to eat. Usually, in the States when I say this, it’s hyperbole because we really have stuff we just don’t have something that’s wanted. However, when I say it here, it’s literal, because we are purchasing food day to day. So I took the two butts of a loaf of bread and made toast with jam. Then when they were still hungry, they each got peanut butter on a spoon, and then another one, and then another one, until they were satiated. But there wasn’t anything left really for Allison and me, and we were both still grumpy.
We didn’t have much of a plan for today, so once Allison was up, we tried to scrap one together. We decided to make our way up to a similar area we were yesterday at the Villa Borghese, but enter the park from a different side after seeing some things along the way.
We made our way to the bus stop and, as always, saw the bus we needed depart as we approached. But we turned lemons into lemonade and decided to use the 20 minutes until the next bus to grab some breakfast pastries. It worked out and we finished eating them at the bus stop right as the bus came.
We rode along the Tiber and were dropped off a few blocks from our first sight, the Mausoleum of Augustus. Unfortunately, it had gates all around it and seemed to be under renovation, so we only saw the outside of the large round monument in which the former Emperor was buried. We continued walking and came out into the large open space of Piazza Popolo.
We hadn’t walked very far yet, but it was at this point that the accumulated fatigue set in for the boys. They both wanted to sit down, so we did, and ate the rest of our left over pastries. We took in the sight of the large Egyptian obelisk that is the centerpiece of the Piazza and the two twin churches on its south side. On the north side there’s another church and this is the one we came to see.
The church is named Santa Maria del Popolo and is a gorgeous church that is home to a number of interesting things. First off, it is another church with graves in the floor that are carved in the shape of their inhabitants, except in this case many of them are so trodden and worn down that no one knows who the people actually are. Also, the church houses two paintings by the Renaissance master Caravaggio. They are remarkable and totally free to see (not counting the one euro they make you donate to activate the lights.) Lastly, the church is apparently built on the Emperor Nero’s grave. Nero was infamous for blaming and executing Christians for the fire that he started which burned down Rome. Apparently, there was thought to be a heavy demonic presence around his grave because of the atrocities he committed and this church was erected to overcome them. The story of all this is depicted in gilded panels in and arch above the church’s altar.
It was inside this amazing church that Silas began to lose it. In his tiredness, he would not obey. He began running through the pews and even tried to skirt his way past a rope up onto the altar. When Allison scooped him up, he started screaming, which in this setting, is not what you want. She begrudgingly took him outside and we had to take turns looking at the sites inside.
One thing I will say, is that generally older people have been super kind and accommodating to the kids, however, if you put some sort of Renaissance piece of art in the room, this is no longer the case. It’s like they become preteen girls at a Justin Bieber concert and will push and jostle you to the side like the riff raff you are, small kid or not.
Once we were done, we climbed a set of stairs up to the Villa Borghese. On this set of stairs both Silas and Beren sat down in protest on seperate occasions and demanded we carry them. As we made our way up the hill, there were two grown men in Roman Legionary costumes blocking the way. You could sense what their schtick was a mile away and with two young boys, I knew we were doomed.
We approached and they put a little fake laurel on Beren’s head right as I thought, “at least this will be a cute picture.” It was a cute picture, albeit a little more violent than I necessarily want for my four year old, but I knew after the picture would come the shakedown. Sure enough, the guy puts out his hand. I though I would be generous by giving five euro. I mean, I took the pictures. All they did was sacrifice their dignity by putting on cheap costumes and carrying tiny swords to pose for about 10 seconds, but the guy demanded another five for the other guy. I said no and he then said to give him the coins in my hand. I said no. So much for the lighthearted fun a few minutes prior.
At the top of the stairs, there was a nice view over the city. The garden in this part of the park was picturesque and was highlighted by a clock that runs by water. It was at this point though we were barely holding things together. Silas was either running away or freaking out when we tried to take away the large stick he was going to gouge his, or someone else’s, eye out with. We decided it was time to go home.
Despite out best efforts, Silas fell asleep on the bus again, but we were able to transfer him to bed successfully. Beren, who stayed up on the bus, went down pretty easily after a little “I’m hungry” tantrum. Phew, we did it. Remembering we were out of food, I went to the store.
When I got back 15 minutes later, to my dismay, Silas was sitting in Allison’s arms on the couch. I guess the transfer wasn’t as successful as formerly thought. Allison had to go to work, so I tried to keep the little dude quietly busy for the time being while Beren still slept. He was noticeable tired and very irritable, but we had some nice moments snuggling on the couch.
Beren took a good nap, thankfully, and once he got up we got ready and went to the park. Getting ready in this regard was good for Beren, but screaming and weeping for Silas (there is a trend beginning to emerge.)
At the playground, it was crazy as usual, but the boys enjoyed themselves sprinting around. It’s interesting because this seems like the only place to go for small kids to get energy out for those that live in the area, so I’m starting to notice the same groups of kids and parents out there every day. It’s like a daily block party and I’m the random American guy wondering around chasing my kids in their midst. I am constantly very proud of Silas and Beren when we are there because some of these kids, and parents, can be rude and they constantly steal toys. Whenever this happens Beren and Silas are so kind and never get upset. They just share and then patiently take the toy back when the other kid is done.
We would have stayed longer, but Silas filled his diaper, so we left, picked up some gelato, and made our way back to the apartment. I tried to provide some snacks while I began making dinner. From here on out, everything was kind of a disaster. Silas was just so exhausted and, as I was cooking, he kept coming over and trying to open the refrigerator to get some yogurt and then going bananas when I said he couldn’t have any and that he needed to move away to not get hurt.
Eventually, I got dinner on the table. I used some of my fish broth I made the other day to make a calamari risotto with some sautéed veggies on the side. It turned out great and was creamy and delicious.
After dinner, Silas tried to get at the yogurt again and got his hand lodged in the fridge door. This was the last straw. He flailed and screamed, seemingly consolable. Finally he calmed down and was able to take a shower and get ready for bed.
The same mood carried into bedtime, but translated over to Beren. After some corrections and consequences, everyone settled down and went to sleep. We cleaned up, finished up work, and sat staring into the distance as we recollected the day.
I’m really hoping the sleep factor will balance itself out. It makes a noticeable difference from day to day, for Allison and I too. When we are able to nap or sleep in a bit, it’s like we are different people, more patient and kind with each other. Let’s hope maybe, just maybe they’ll sleep past 6:00 tomorrow? Fingers crossed.