I was looking forward to being in Rome for the Ides of March, the infamous day in 44 BC when Julius Caesar was assassinated by Brutus, Cassius, and other members of the Roman Senate. It’s one of the most famous dates in history and we are here, where it happened. In fact, one of our first days here, our bus happened to drop us off across the street from the ruins where the act took place. (Fun tidbit: This set of ruins is presently home to yet another feral cat colony.)
Usually they do a ceremony in the Forum where people place flowers on his tomb and they do a reenactment at the ruins where the deed took place, however, when I awoke this morning and did a little research, it seems that the events were being curtailed still due to COVID. Bummer. But, unfortunately, with Allison’s work today and watching the boys, I doubt I would have been able to make it anyway. A reenactment of a historical figure being systematically stabbed to death by dozens of his peers doesn’t necessarily seem like something the boys are ready for.
Nevertheless, I kept the significance of the date in mind as we got up and I ran out to grab a quick cappuccino and some marmalade filled cornetti for the family. I also picked up some yogurt and baby wipes, being the modern hunter gatherer that I am.
We knew that we needed a bigger restock on food today, which probably would mean going to the market, but before all that, we wanted to see if we could venture back up the Aventine Hill to the Basilica of Santa Sabina we tried to go to yesterday in the hope that today it would be open. So after our quick bite, we headed out the door to scale the hill once again.
It was another beautiful, sunny, and mild day out and, to our delight, the church was indeed open. Inside, we were the only ones there in the vast open space. We walked around and took in all the strange little peculiarities. The site is said to have been built on the the previous site of a temple to the Roman goddess Juno and off to the side of the church interior is an ancient Roman column coming up out of a hole in the floor and thought to be a remainder from that ancient temple. Also, in various areas about the floor were graves. I’m not sure who all of these people were, whether bishops, monks, or otherwise, but their tomb stones depicted them as they were by means of etchings, carvings, and even an elaborate mosaic. It was very cool, but also a little unnerving to see the form of the dead person lying beneath your feet.
We also had a chance to admire the doors again, which we researched more and found that the carving of the crucifixion is the earliest still existing artistic depiction, which is pretty cool. Looking at it again, I was able to discern a few of the other panels with scenes of Pharaoh being swallowed by the Red Sea and the Transfiguration. It really is quite beautiful.
We left the church shortly thereafter, and walked up the road toward another peculiar site, the Aventine Keyhole. We didn’t try this yesterday because there were other things to see that Allison thought would be less lame. Fair enough, but we’d checked those things off, so to the keyhole we went.
A little ways down the road is a building/compound belonging to the Knights of Malta, the group made famous during the crusades. I don’t know much about them or even that they still existed, but extending from a door in a large ornate wall was a single file line, which we proceeded to stand in. There was something amusing about seeing a bunch of fully grown adults wait in a parking lot to look through the keyhole. Soon it was our turn, we approached the keyhole and looked through, and to be completely honest, it was pretty cool. Through the circular keyhole you look into a garden and a long corridor of trees and there, in the middle, perfectly framed by the trees, is an unobstructed view of St. Peter’s Basilica.
Now it was time to descend the hill and head off to restock at the market. I had decided that I wanted to make some fish piccata. I got some white wine and then headed off to the fish monger. I approached and was trying to figure out what to do. Finally, I approached and said, “Buongiorno!” Immediately, the man I said it to motioned to a woman nearby and said, “English.” At least I now have confirmed my accent is bad.
All the fish were whole, so I picked one and they scaled and fileted it for me onsite. They also asked me if I wanted the head and bones and I said sure. The woman was then nice enough to tell me how to make a soup with them. I then went to the produce stand for some aromatics and some veggies. I haven’t mentioned much about this yet, but people smoke a lot in Italy. The woman at the produce stand was actively smoking a cigarette while picking out my produce. She had it dangling in her hand as she helped weigh my strawberries, carrots, and fennel. She was kind enough, though, even though I didn’t know much Italian. She was asking me if I wanted certain things big or small, so I asked how to say big in Italian. She turned, with an amused face and said, “Grande”. I responded with, “Oh. It’s grande here too.”
After a few more minutes I paid and walked away as someone else approached. I think I may have heard the word “stupido” as they began their conversation. I’m assuming in reference to me.
Back at the apartment, we ate some lunch and then the boys and I took a nap. When we awoke, we watched some TV and then went to the playground. It was madness with kids flying around every which way, all zooming around on tiny push toys. It was a great energy burn for the boys and after a bit, Allison had a break in the day, so she came to the park and then we walked to get some pre-dinner gelato.
It seemed like everyone was out and about on the piazzas, enjoying the evening and the community. There was an energy in the air and it was fun to be a part of it while eating our tasty gelato.
We walked back to the apartment once again and I made dinner while Allison went back to work. The fresh fish was delicious with the sides of Roman zucchini and orzo pasta. After dinner, the boys showered and went off to bed where they crashed quickly. I spent the evening making my first fumet (fish broth) with the aromatics and remains from the fish. I’m hoping to use it in a risotto or something later this week.
Another good day in the books. It has been a lot and tiring, but outside of work, exploring, and hanging with the boys, we don’t do much else but sleep. Taking naps when the boys take them has seriously helped, as has the well timed afternoon espresso shot.